December 20, 2021

Maitake mushroom salad

December 20, 2021/ Rebecca Davis

This warm, simple salad is so special thanks to the maitake mushrooms and the variety of textures and flavors. Made from expensive ingredients, this salad is meant for special occasions (or just the occasion of treating yourself), but I promise it’s worth it!

Take me to the recipe!

This salad is based on my best memories from a tiny little restaurant in Brooklyn called Little Dishes that I used to frequent with my husband before it tragically closed. I remember running to this place in the thick snow when someone was having a craving for their Mac and cheese. Their food was so simple, but so thoughtfully prepared that the dishes ended up being much greater than the sum of their humble parts.

Maitake mushrooms, sometimes called Hen of the Woods, are my absolute favorite variety. They’re meaty and slightly herby with a wee bit of forest floor funk. I state from the outset that this is an expensive salad because maitakes definitely don’t come cheap and I wouldn’t substitute any other mushroom variety here. I mean, you CAN, but your salad with end up fine, instead of ethereal.

The original recipe used a local cheese that was somewhere between parmesan and gruyere. Use either in this recipe or any other favorite cheese that falls in the nutty, slightly dry realm.

A couple of notes:

Cooking the mushrooms: I like to leave the mushrooms in slightly large pieces. It will feel awkward to cook them at first because they’re pretty stiff until they heat up somewhat. Once you sear them on one side, the mushrooms will get much floppier and easier to cook.
Cooking the radicchio: I seared half of the bitter lettuce and left the other half raw for a bit of textural difference, but you don’t strictly need to do this step. I left the lettuce in pretty large pieces for the photos, but definitely slice them much thinner for the real salad.

Maitake mushroom salad

2-3 large maitake mushrooms, each cut into about 4 large pieces
1 small head of radicchio, sliced into very thin wedges
1 Tbsp butter
1 Tbsp olive oil
4-5 cups arugula (1 small bag of pre-washed lettuce is perfect)
Shallot vinaigrette (recipe below), to taste
Parmesan or gruyere cheese, to taste

Shallot vinaigrette
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp sherry or red wine vinegar
1 Tbsp minced shallot
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
1 tsp mayonnaise
1 large pinch of salt

Heat the butter in a large skillet over a medium high flame. When the butter has begun to bubble and brown slightly, add the mushrooms and cook, turning every 1-2 minutes, until well browned on all sides and very floppy, about 6-8 minutes. Remove the mushrooms to a plate and sprinkle with salt.

Add the olive oil to the pan and heat until very hot, but not smoking. Sear half of the radicchio on one side and then flip to the other side and sear again. If the pan is hot enough, this should take about 5-6 minutes. Turn off the heat and sprinkle with salt.

Add the mushrooms back to the pan with the radicchio to warm back up, but don’t turn the flame back on.

Add the arugula and the raw radicchio to a large plate or bowl. Add half of the dressing and toss well. Sprinkle with sea salt.

Top with the warm mushrooms and radicchio. Pour on more dressing to taste.

Add large flakes of the nutty, salty cheese on top to taste. Serve immediately.

January 28, 2019

French onion steak skillet

January 28, 2019/ Rebecca Davis

Valentine’s Day is on the horizon, folks. This is a holiday that I don’t particularly enjoy. If you’re not in a relationship or in one that’s complicated, it can feel like a giant middle finger. If you are in a relationship, it can be stressful and/or tedious to have a mandated celebration of your love. AND EXPENSIVE, AMIRIGHT? There’s definitely surge pricing for restaurants and babysitters. Bleh. I hate it.

So instead, we’ll put the kiddo to bed early, open a bottle of wine, and make this easy French Onion Steak Skillet that requires VERY little work and even less cleanup.

But even on non-holiday nights, if your kids like French Onion Soup or steak, they’ll dig in. No need to save this for a special, adults-only meal.

Also, I think I’ve finally cracked the code for getting GENUINELY caramelized onions (not fried, frizzled, or straight-up burned) in about 20 minutes. I know, I know. Most recipes claim that it takes 20 minutes when it actually takes an hour or more to get that deep uniform jammy brownness. Behold this before and after:

After a deep dive through Youtube videos and Cook’s Illustrated articles, I’ve achieved great results much faster than usual. Here are a few secrets to speeding up this otherwise slow process:

Use a large pan with a tight fitting lid. You’ll melt butter and olive oil together and then cook the onions for 3 minutes at a time with the pan covered.
Use medium high heat the whole time. You want the onions to brown and stick to the bottom of the pan just a little bit. If they stick too much and/or blacken rather than brown, turn the heat down slightly. If the onions aren’t sticking to the bottom, turn the heat up.
Add water or stock every 3 minutes and scrape the browned bits off of the bottom and mix them into the onions while they’re cooking.
Repeat the process: Cook 3 minutes over high heat/ add liquid/ scrape the browned bits/ cover and cook for 3 more minutes. After about 15-20 minutes, the onions will be done!
Add 1/8 tsp baking powder at the very end to make the onions sweeter. You can’t add it at the beginning or the onions will break down too much, but adding it at the end lends just the right amount of jamminess.

French onion steak skillet

4 large onions, sliced in ¼ inch slices
1 Tbsp olive oil
3 Tbsp butter, divided
5 large sprigs of thyme
2½ cups beef stock
¼ tsp salt
1/8 tsp baking soda
1 lb skirt steak, strip steak, flank steak, or tri-tip steak (basically any moderately thin steak) Salt and pepper to taste
½ large baguette, sliced
1 clove garlic, halved
3 oz gruyere cheese, thinly sliced or grated
Flaky sea salt

For the onions:
In a large, ovenproof skillet or pot with a tight fitting lid, heat the olive oil and 1 Tbsp of butter over a medium high flame. Add the onions and thyme, cover, and cook for 3 minutes. If the onions start to burn, turn the heat down slightly (but try to maintain a high heat). After 3 minutes, remove the cover, add ¼ cup of stock, and scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pan and mix the onions around. Re-cover and cook for another 3 minutes, and then repeat the stock/scrape/mix process. Repeat this 3-minute process until the onions are uniformly soft and brown, about 15-20 minutes.

Turn off the heat and mix in ¼ tsp kosher salt and 1/8 tsp of baking soda. Remove the onions to a separate plate and wipe out the pot.

For the skillet:
Whole the onions are cooking, slice the bread and toast lightly in the toaster. Rub the raw garlic over one side of the bread. Shred the gruyere. Set aside.

When the onions are done and removed to another container, heat the broiler to high.

Melt the other 2 Tbsp of butter in your wiped-out skillet over high heat. Sear the steak for about 3-4 minutes per side. While the steak is seering on one side, season with salt and pepper. Repeat when you flip to the other side.

Turn off the heat and add the cooked onions back to the pan.

Pour 3-4 Tbsp of stock over the onions in the pan. Nestle the slices of bread in the onions around the steak and top with cheese.

Place the entire pan under the broiler until the cheese is bubbly and slightly browned.

Slice the steak to test doneness. Sprinkle with more flaky sea salt and fresh thyme sprigs.

Yield: 2 grown up and 2 kid servings

November 12, 2017

Green bean galette

November 12, 2017/ Rebecca Davis

This green bean galette started life as a green bean casserole alternative and quickly earned a spot on my easy-yet-impressive list.

Give me that galette!

We've eaten this galette quite a few times since the calendar flipped to September and I decided it was time to eat "cozy food." It’s so easy and somehow makes everyone in my family happy. Maybe it’s all the cheese and butter?

This recipe is truly one of those crowd pleasers that feels so fancy and yet, couldn’t be simpler. Well, I suppose it could be simpler, but the difficulty-to-impressiveness ratio makes it well worth the effort.

A couple of notes:

I sometimes buy the smaller, skinnier haricot vert over traditional green beans and skip the blanching step.

This galette is also delicious for breakfast with some ham (or leftover turkey) and an egg on top.

Green bean galette

Time: About 55 minutes, half of it active
Yield: about 6-8 portions

1 sheet puff pastry
3 oz gruyere, grated
6-8 oz thin green beans, trimmed
½ large onion or 3-4 large shallots, thinly sliced
2 Tbsp butter
1/3 cup panko
½ tsp salt

Preheat oven to 425. Roll out a sheet of puff pastry dough into a large rectangle on a piece of parchment and transfer to a sheet pan or baking sheet.

Bring a pot of water to a boil and set aside a large bowl. (Skip this step if using thin green beans.)

Meanwhile, grate gruyere and spread over the puff pastry, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides.

Melt butter in a large pan over medium heat and add the onions or shallots, cooking until they begin to soften and brown, about 15 minutes. Add the breadcrumbs and salt and sauté until fragrant and toasted, about 5 minutes.

While cooking the onions or shallots, check your pot of water. When it’s boiling, add the green beans and cook over high heat for 2-3 minutes. Add ice cubes and water to your large bowl. When the beans have boiled for a few minutes, remove them and submerge in the ice water. (Again, skip this step if using thin green beans.)

Pat the green beans dry and place them on top of the puff pastry and cheese, leaving the 1-inch border. Spread the breadcrumb mixture over the green beans.

Fold the pastry border over the edges of the green beans and breadcrumbs.

Bake for 18-23 minutes until the pastry is golden brown.

October 19, 2017

Delicata squash boats!

October 19, 2017/ Rebecca Davis

This dish has it all: vegetables! sausage! bread cubes! eggs! cheese! It’s a complete meal all by itself and feels right eaten with a runny egg for breakfast, a salad for lunch, or some rotisserie chicken for dinner.

Take me to the recipe!

Delicata is the sort-of-lazy man's squash. It's not totally without prep as you have to cut it in half and clean out the seeds in the middle. But there's no peeling, because the peel is edible, which erases the most aggravating thing about squash for me.

While, obviously, the cheese, milk, and bread play a big role, the whole is much greater than the sum of its parts. The bread and nutty cheese are a nice salty, crunchy counterpoint to the sweet, soft squash while the eggs and milk add richness and the kale adds a little bitter green.

Delicata squash boats

Time: Between 30 and 45 minutes, mostly active
Yield: 4 dinner-sized servings for adults

2 large delicata squash, washed, ends trimmed, and cut in half with seeds scooped out
2 eggs
1 cup whole milk or cream
¼ cup grated parmesan
4 large sage leaves, minced (or ½ tsp of dried sage)
4 oz stale bread, cut into small cubes
1 cup finely chopped kale
4 oz cooked sausage (or 6-8 oz of raw ground pork with a pinch each of garlic powder, onion powder, dried sage, paprika, salt, and couple of fennel seeds)
3-4 oz shredded gruyere

Preheat the oven to 400. While the oven is heating, clean the squash by cutting each log in half, scooping out the seeds and pulp in the center, and placing cut-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

Roast the squash for 15 minutes, or until a fork can just pierce the outside of the squash (the squash will continue to cook, so don’t look for full fork tenderness).

While the oven heats and the squash roasts, combine the eggs and milk in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Add the bread cubes and stir to dampen all of the bread. Add the rest of the ingredients* and stir until combined and none of the bread cubes remain dry. Set aside.

*If not using precooked sausage, cook the the ground pork and spices now. Heat a glug of olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add the ground pork. Sprinkle on the pinches of each listed spice and mash around with a spatula. Cook until the sausage is browned and no pink remains, about 8 minutes.

Remove the squash from the oven and carefully flip over with tongs or a spatula being mindful of the steam. Scoop equal amounts of filling into the centers** and push down lightly. Top generously with grated gruyere and place back in the oven for 10 minutes or until the cheese is brown and melted.

**Extra filling can be cooked in a ramekin or other oven-safe dish topped with gruyere along side the squash boats.